Wadi Nakhur - at the feet of Jebel Shams
Jebel Shams is always a breathtaking and dramatic destination - no matter how you approach it, from the top or bottom. Stunning and mesmerizing. We have been to the gorge (Wadi Al Nakhur or Wadi Ghul) at the bottom of it before: it is a very dramatic drive with a mostly abandoned village at the end. Habitants moved out to easier locations but some of the old houses have been converted to guest rooms and the gardens are cultivated.
The road is rough, needs proper 4x4 to navigate and after rains it gets washed away, so best to check with the guest house if drivable. Also, if there is rain in the forecast, do not drive in - it can be super dangerous. Normal weather apps are not too reliable, best to check mountain weather pages (like this one) or with locals.
To spend a night in the guest house was on our wish list for a long time, especially after we learnt that there is a really nice hike leading to a pool inside the gorge.
The guest house is very basic, you get a room with bed and a flush toilet. The bed and pillows had fresh sheets on them, but the cover did not so if you are picky, it is best to bring blanket or sleeping bag. There is no food offered, so we had to take our camping kitchen with us and we grilled. I feel it could be a very special place with a bit of service - it does not have to be anything fancy, but if they offered a grill dinner or Omani traditionally meal and Omani breakfast, it could make a huge difference, because the ambiance is simply unbeatable (to be fair, on Google maps I did see pictures with buffet style food prep, so maybe for bigger groups and more notice they can do it). It was very special to see how the sun set and rose from the bottom of the gorge when you have 1000m high vertical rocks walls around you. And silence, only the wind and animals made sounds and when they went silent, there was nothing else, just silence. It was magical.
The following day we took off to hike to the hidden pool with a local guide - it was not the plan, he was there to greet us when we arrived and offered to guide us so we said yes. The hike is marked and can be done without a guide but we did not regret having him - at parts the path is super exposed and while barriers and metal steps were installed, it was nice to have him around, giving tips etc. And he spoke a bit of English and talked about the village which is always interesting.
The hike is very dramatic, you literally walk on a very narrow rim and there is only a thin metal barrier between you and the abyss. And the pool is a well earned price at the end!
Start of the wadi: 23.149254, 57.204905. Strictly with 4x4 and it has to be high enough with low gear option. Casual SUV will not cut it. If you have time explore the ruins and gardens at the entrance. This is the start point of the W6 hikes, which leads up to Jebel Shams. The Oman Offroad book has chapter about the gorge (in ours it is rout 8).
Hike starting point: hike starts in the village at the end of the wadi. It is marked with the usual tricolor flags.
Hi -
ReplyDeleteI just bought your book!! i love it
thanks for sharing this wonderful hike! Should it be possible to get the contact of your guide please-:) I would love doing it with some friends and my husband (who is a bit scare of height when you don’t have a lot of space for your feet).
Thanks
Hi, It is Eva here.. You can WhatsApp the guest house, they can help with the guide as well. And it is always good to ask them about the condition of the road! Thanks for buying the book and happy hiking!
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